Сradle of Catalonia: 4 Quaint Towns of the Girona Region
Would you like to leave the noisy and touristy city behind and find yourself in a quiet Catalan village? I am going to tell you about 4 such places, which are considered to be the real cradles of Catalonia. The province of Girona, to which these towns belong, is very diverse. It goes from the sea coast, mountains and waterfalls to green fields with herds of cows. The only thing you will hear here is the pure Catalan language.
The perfect holiday destination can be found on a green island in the foothills of the Pirineau Mountains, surrounded by towns on one side, ski resorts on the other, with dormant volcanoes nearby. We spent two weeks in total silence, enjoying the sound of the water, the scent of the flowers, the mist and the winding mountain roads. Sometimes we left the lodge and explored the towns in the area.
Saturday is a busy day in Ripoll. All the locals go to the market with their farm produce. In Catalonia, these products are called km 0, which means their own. A woman tells me about the wonderful apples they grow in Emporda. The variety of colours on the fruit and vegetable stall in the bright sunlight at 10am makes me smile. The smell of homemade bread wafts from the bakery tent. I walk over. "Wow, is that chestnut bread?" I ask, picking up a warm bag. The people are relaxed, some of them are looking at the map, they are on holiday like us. But they are a minority.
Small, cosy cafes welcome you in the morning, restaurants open only in the evening. Relaxed all around.
The monastery stands in the centre of town, a tourist train runs around it - today it is empty. Those who have come from Barcelona are spending this Saturday enjoying nature rather than the city's sights. Cycling, forest trails, sports. The weather is perfect. A fresh breeze. In the evening there will be summer rain.
The mountains in the background and the winding road through them lead to Ribes de Freser. It is a very modest and small town perched on the side of a mountain. This is where the train leaves for the ski resort of Nuria. The train left and returned three times with us almost empty. But we did see a lot of bikes on the winding road.
The town is divided by a river, full and raging in winter, shallow and quiet in summer, like a stream running along the rocks. There are lots of people, all strolling along the river, and at lunchtime looking for restaurants in the centre of the narrow streets.
The place near where we stayed is the very cosy little town of Sant Joan de les Abadeses. It is famous for its Romanesque monastery from 1150. The town was built around the monastery and has grown over time. Small and very cosy, with bread shops and local honey from Ogasa (a village on top of a mountain within a 15km radius - Ogasa).
The Gorg de Malatosca waterfalls are within walking distance of the town. Descending through thickets of flowering thorn bushes, mountain views and woodland, they find themselves at a 5-metre-high waterfall, with a lake formed by the waterfall flowing into the river. The water is refreshing and the two men plunge into it with enthusiasm.
Go a little further into the mountains and you will find a very quiet and secluded place called El Muig. This old restored hacienda consists of three houses surrounded by mountains with a field in between. The smells in this place take you back to your childhood, the sounds fill your mind and heart. Every day, early in the morning, nature creates a masterpiece for you, from the first rays of the sun, the mist that drifts in the distance and the clouds that linger on the top of the mountain, clinging to the pine trees.
In the mood for something sweet, we head for Camprodon, home to the factory of Birba, the famous Catalan biscuit manufacturer. You drive into the town, the factory is at the entrance, you open the car window and the smell of vanilla and fresh waffles fills the air. It really whets your appetite. The town is unique, with ancient bridges and aqueducts over the river and charming streets.
Continue to the right towards Girona and you can see the dormant volcanoes. Catalonia has them too! The Olot region is made up of 10 volcanic craters that have been dormant for over 100,000 years.
It is now a green area with hills, forests and stunning views.
This is what is known as the cradle of Catalonia. Each small village surrounded by these mountains must be seen to feel how these people live in silence, tranquillity and peace, enjoying every day and how time passes differently for them.
