- Geolocation: Passeig de Picasso, 21
- Opening hours: every day of the year from 10:00 to 22:30
- Cost: free of charge
The wide Passeig de Lluís Companys leads you from the Arc de Triomphe to the main entrance of Parc de la Ciutadella. In guidebooks you can meet another name - Parc de la Ciutadella. Both are correct. After all, the Catalan La ciutadella translates as citadel.
HISTORY
The name is closely related to the history of the city. In the early 18th century, Barcelona was taken by Spanish troops. It was then that Catalonia lost its independence, which it aspires to nowadays. The Spanish built a military citadel in the center of the city: not for defense, but to keep the citizens under control. In the mid-19th century, the fortress was no longer needed. Most of the buildings were destroyed, but the name was preserved.
A park was laid out on the site of the fortress, which became Barcelona's only green space at the time. Today, the Ciutadella is still one of the largest parks in the city. It's like a magical oasis: from the dense urbanization of the city, it's like entering a tropical forest with winding paths and huge palm trees. An ideal place to hide out on a hot day and at the same time put another tick done in your cultural program.
WHAT TO SEE?
Locals come here to relax and rest on the grass. Some even manage to set up a tent or hang a hammock here. There is a small sidewalk cafe, a dance floor, picnic areas, table tennis tables and children's play areas. Street artists give performances here. If you hear drums, run to the sound! Recently, the Parque Ciutadella has become a hotspot for immigrants from African countries. Every day they insistently offer visitors to buy brightly colored blankets. You should not be afraid of them. We politely respond to their offers: "no, gracias" and move on!
The Ciutadella Park is quite extensive. And it's like the fairy tale says: wherever you go, you'll find something. Let's take a walk together. Let's start from the central entrance (on the photo below). It is marked on the map of the park with the letter A. A wide central alley starts from the entrance. It leads directly to the Zoo.
ZOOPARK
The zoo appeared in Parque Ciutadella at the end of the 19th century. The territory is very large: you can walk here all day long. There are more than 320 species of animals and more than 400 species of plants. Be sure to take a map at the entrance: it is realistic to get lost. You can't leave the territory to have lunch. But there are several cafes in the zoo. There are not many healthy menu options. If you are planning a visit with children, we advise you to bring food with you and sit on one of the picnic areas. Adult tickets to the zoo cost 21.40 €, children's tickets (from 3 to 12 years old) cost 12.95 €, under 3 years old are free. It is slightly cheaper when purchased online. Opening hours are from 10am to 8pm.
On the right side of the main entrance there are several other interesting objects and beautiful walkways. I will tell you in order.
CASTLE OF THE THREE DRAGONS
To the right of the main entrance you will see a large red brick Art Nouveau building with a crenellated roof. The Castle of the Three Dragons resembles a medieval fortress. But it was built here just like the Arc de Triomphe - for the 1888 World's Fair. It was a restaurant and cafeteria for visitors. Imagine how respectable gentlemen and ladies in lavish dresses flocked here. It is now home to the Zoological Museum of Catalonia. Since the end of 2016, it has been closed for renovation.
ABANDONED MODERNIST MONUMENTS
Right behind the Castle of the Three Dragons you will find the Winter Garden. I still can't understand how such a magnificent piece of modernist architecture in the center of Barcelona could be abandoned. The two airy galleries and the roof between them are impressive. But the plants inside are in decay. Homeless people have taken up residence inside. The building is fenced off. There is no hint of renovation.
Similar situation with the Geological Museum and Library building that stands next to it. Take a walk by and take a look at the buildings. The spirit of modernism is still alive here.
PALM GREENHOUSE
Next to the Geology Museum stands another small greenhouse. Feel free to go inside. It's magical in there! Walk around the perimeter and relax in the shade on one of the benches under the huge leaves of tropical plants. The Palm Greenhouse is open from 10 am to 3 pm on weekdays. In the mornings it is completely deserted.
ORANGE ALLEY
Between the zoo and the Palm Greenhouse you will find a cozy corner with a fountain and an avenue of orange trees. In the fall, when the fruit is ripening, it's so beautiful here. It may be an everyday occurrence for locals, but visitors from temperate latitudes are invariably delighted by such views.
Now let's go from the main entrance to Park A to the left. Here at the north end of the park you'll see.
CASCADA MULTILEVEL FOUNTAIN
The jewel of the park is the Cascada fountain. It was opened in 1881 and finalized over 6 years. The team of architects and sculptors included the still unknown young student Antonio Gaudi. The fountain is crowned by a golden figure of the goddess Aurora in a chariot drawn by four horses. On the Cascada is placed a huge number of sculptures. There are ancient gods and cherubs, lizards and the famous griffins with water coming out of their mouths.
Make sure to climb one of the stairs. The view of the park from the top is spectacular. At sunset there is a soft light and the turquoise water seems to glow. It is interesting that on top of the fountain the first Barcelona aquarium worked until 1930. Then the exposition moved to the zoo and the room was closed to the public.
LAKE
There is a small lake in the center of the park. Rent a boat (cost 6 - 10€ depending on the number of people, opening hours from 10 to 21) and explore the park from the water. There are always lots of birds here: ducks, geese, herons and parrots. The kids are thrilled! Sometimes exotic birds fly in from the zoo, which occupies about a third of the park area.
MAMMOTH
Find the sculpture of a huge stone mammoth on the path from the fountain to the lake. It's three and a half meters tall. The mammoth was installed here back in 1907! It was planned to start the exposition of extinct prehistoric animals in real size. Unfortunately, the project was not developed and the mammoth remained in Parque Ciutadella in proud solitude.
THE CATALAN PARLIAMENT BUILDING AND THE "DESPAIR" SCULPTURE
Farther beyond the lake, in a quiet part of the park, is the Plaza de Joan Fiveller. On the left side, one of the surviving buildings of the fortress now houses the Parliament of Catalonia.
In front of the parliament in a small pond there is a sculpture of a girl with her head bowed. It is a replica of the 1903 sculpture "Despair" by the best sculptor of Catalan modernism, Josep Llimona. The original was moved to the Palacio Nacional de Catalunya for safekeeping.
There is a wonderful garden with many cozy corners for relaxation. There is also an ancient building of the Parroquia Castrense de la Ciutadella temple.
HOW TO GET THERE?
From Placa de Catalunya:
- Walk through the picturesque Born neighborhood in about 20 minutes.
- Take bus H16 at Pl, Catalunya - Portal de l'Angel and get off right at the entrance to the park at Pg. Lluis Companys - Jutjats.
- Take the metro: line L1, stop Pl. Catalunya in the direction of Clot. Get off at the Arc de Triomf stop, exit the platform in the direction of Avda. Vilanova. Walk along Passeig de Lluis Companys to the entrance of the park.
Stock up on time, water, sandwiches and fruit. Grab your camera. Breathe, dance, wonder! And look for your favorite corner in this wonderful place without exaggeration.
Text and photo: Katya Avocado