Musclarium: Open Sea Restaurant on a Mussel and Oyster Farm
I remember the first time I landed in Barcelona. Just a few hours later, I was wandering around the Born district trying to find... the freshest seafood! Yes, the first item on my 'must do' list was not the Sagrada Familia or the famous La Rambla, but an authentic Mediterranean restaurant.
If you are willing to put your date with the ancient beauties on hold for a plate of fresh mussels and oysters, then you should definitely visit the place where it all begins...
TRIP TO THE MUSKLARIUM
Be patient and set off... because it takes about two hours to get there. "The Musclarium is halfway to Valencia. So if you've never been there, it's a good reason to do a little gastronomic tour and combine a trip to the Musclarium with a visit to sunny Valencia - the home of paella!
Before you embark on this journey, I strongly recommend that you make your reservations in advance. Contact details are at the end of this article.
Musclarium is a bar/restaurant located in the middle of the sea, in the Ebre river delta, in the province of Tarragona, in the south of Catalonia. Your destination is the Sant Carles de la Ràpita marina car park.
On the pier you will see a wooden cabin with a sign saying Musclarium (see photo below). There you will take a speedboat that will take you from the port of San Carlos to the Batea and vice versa. The ticket is included in the price of the tour.
After a few minutes of sailing you can already see rows of wooden planks... It was the first time I had seen a mussel and oyster farm! Turns out there are quite a few in Spain, but only two are open to the public.
We tied up at a restaurant in the middle of the sea. We were greeted by Albert Grasa, the farm manager. Unfortunately, we were an hour late, so we didn't get the tour we had planned. But our welcoming host didn't leave us in the dark and quickly gave us the highlights.
He explained that sustainability was at the heart of Musclarium's ethos. They use innovative aquaculture techniques that minimise environmental impact and ensure that the fragile coastal ecosystem remains intact.
It turns out that the first farms in this bay were built in 1942, and today there are 90 of them in the area! A "farm" is a rectangular wooden structure with beams cemented to the ground at a depth of 5 metres. Ropes are hung from these same beams where the mussels feed and breed. Interestingly, they grow very slowly. It takes 9-10 months for mussels to reach full maturity and 2-3 years for oysters!
Located in the bay of Alfaques, Musclarium benefits from the pristine waters of the Mediterranean. The farm's mussel beds are strategically placed to take advantage of the natural ebb and flow of the tides. This ensures that the mussels receive an abundance of nutrients from the water, contributing to their exceptional taste.
Albert explains that they send 95% of their production to Barcelona, Madrid and some cities in France. And then he proudly notes that no Michelin restaurant can compare with the Musclarium when it comes to the freshness of the mussels.
To enhance the effect of these words, our guide takes a special knife and goes to the rows of ropes. He takes the oyster from the bottom, washes it and opens it in front of us. After this masterclass, you will learn how to open the shells without damaging them, how to tell a dead oyster from a live one, and much more...
Musclarium promotes a farm-to-table philosophy where consumers can enjoy mussels that are as fresh as possible, having travelled the shortest distance from farm to fork. Our experience included:
Plate of mussels from the Delta del Ebro in garlic sauce
4 oysters from the Delta del Ebro
Sepia in ink sauce
Seafood paella
The food was delicious, authentic and nutritious. After such a meal, it is best to sit on a comfortable sofa in the restaurant and watch the waves dance and, if you stay longer, the golden sunset. The farm's restaurant overlooks the bay, creating an unforgettable atmosphere.
PRICE
Mussel and oyster experience: 54€/person (experience + transport)
- Transport by sea taxi from the port of San Carlos de la Rápita to the Musclarium, approx. 10 min.
- Visit to the oyster farm with explanation of the cultivation of oysters and mussels
- Tasting menu (drinks not included)
- Return to the port by sea taxi
TIMETABLE
From 15 June to 17 October - open every day; on other days please call the number below.
